Tale of Two Worlds from my ‘hood in Phnom Penh

On a walk through my new neighborhood in Phnom Penh, I got a taste of the spectrum of wealth and poverty that’s here in Cambodia.  Going by this crazy house with its 3 story doric columns, I marvel that I’ve never seen this decadence even in Connecticut.  It’s even more strident in my ‘hood here, for Just around the corner, the homeless vendors can be seen shutting down their makeshift shacks at night to tuckle up against the errant flash thunderstorms that hit during the rainy season.

 

This photo was taken right in front of the house with the 3 story high columns. The amazing juxtaposition is, this villager comes to Phnom Penh with only his cart full of coconuts. He doesn’t return home till he sells all of them, and will sleep in the streets until he does. I bought 2 for $3, rather than at some souped-up grocery. This meager money I spent goes a long way with him. I owe it to Lonely Planet for opening my eyes up to the idea of “responsible tourism”. His gratitude was a little heartbreaking for me, as was the rope around his shoulders to help pull his cart and his blackened hands from the cart handles.

For most of my time so far, I’ve been surprisingly stoic in the face of the poverty I’ve seen here. But something about the direct contact I had with this person jolted and haunted me a bit.  I’ve vowed to shop from more street vendors during my time here instead of at the conglomerate supermarkets.

I’m astounded how everyone has a story here… the Khmer Rouge brought about unthinkable conditions in Cambodia, and I’m just truly opening my eyes to the hardship that still exists here.  Funny how it’s been all around me, but I viewed it all from afar, like I was in a 3D movie.

In this third week, I’ve finally broken down a bit.  Rehearsals are particularly hard now as I’m rooting in this country more.  The scenes we play out in the show, I am harshly aware, is the story of the tuk-tuk driver down the street, the girl selling beer, even our fellow Cambodian cast members.  At the same time, I’m using myself in my work as I never have before.  I’m hoping to get more of a gage on my on/off switch to the susceptibility and vulnerability I’m experiencing.  I don’t want to cut myself off, but I can’t walk through my time here a gaping wound… A delicate balance as I straddle worlds.